Denim fabrics have been one of the rare
clothing groups worn by people in any gender, any social/professional group and
country. Now are day denim is most desirable garment for wearer. Denim is
fashion icon for youth and number of people increase day by day toward the
denim. It was observed that 50% of people under 60 have preferred denim
products during their lives. 90% of the people around 14 and 19 ages and 70% of
the people around 20 and 29 ages stated that denim products were crucial for
their wearing experiences. Its usage has always an increase trend and it is
thought that making it more comfortable and improving some properties.
Strength
of the fabric is an important property that decides and influences all other
performance properties of the fabric. Consideration of the strength of the
fabric is very essential while selecting the appropriate fabric for the
intended garment, Fibers properties is indirectly affect to fabric properties.
It was found that PPI, weave and weft type greatly affect fabric strength. When
the threads/inch increases the fabric strength also increases but at higher
threads/inch the gain in strength is relatively more.
The
air permeability is a very important factor in the performance of some textile
materials. There are voids generate between weft and warp yarns in the fabric
during interlacement. The void volume in woven fabrics causes air permeability.
The air permeability of fabric is determined by the rate of air flow through a
material under a differential pressure between the two fabric surfaces.
Definition of denim and jeans
According to Textile Terms and definition published by
textile institute “ Denim is traditionally
a 3/1 warp faced twill fabric made from yarn dyed warp and undyed weft yarn.”
And jean is a 2/1 warp faced twill fabric used chiefly for overalls or casual
wear.
Jean originally an Ameriacan term ( now international derived from Genes
( cloth from Genoa ). The term was coined un the USA to describe tight –
fitting trousers made of cotton twill, usually woven with a dark blue dyed warp
and undyed weft stitched on seams and pockets and having copper rivets here and
there.
Types
of denim fabric
- Polyester denim
- Slub denim
- Ring denim
- Broken twill denim
- Herring bone twill denim
- Fency denim
Treatment or modified denim fabric
- Coated fabric
- Prepare for dye
- Two tone denim
- Flat fabric
- Calendaring fabric
- Cotton to dye
- Printed denim fabric
Cotton denim
Cotton denim is made by cotton yarn in warp and weft side. 100% cotton denim is a fully breathable fabric, which
means that it can be cooler to wear in hot conditions. 100% cotton tends to rip
and wear out easily, depending on the weave. Cotton denim is a very durable and
abrasion-resistant fabric, but it is very thick and heavy. In regards to
safety, cotton fibers that have not been treated for fire-resistance will tend
to burn away where polyester will melt. As a natural fiber, 100% cotton
garments also tend to be a bit more expensive than the synthetic counterparts.
Features of cotton denim
Ø Warp and weft side used
cotton yarns
Ø No stretch
Ø Very hard wearing
Ø Heavy weight fabric
Ø It can be ironed at high
temperatures and it easily fades due to the dye being on the surface.
Cotton denim is a great versatile fabric that has stood the test of
time. Maybe you’ll be inspired to give cotton a try for your next project.
Depending on your application, you might choose 100% cotton or a blend to get
just the right features.
Polyester denim (PD)
Polyester has an equal number of
advantages and disadvantages as cotton. Polyester does not breathe and has a
tendency to stick to the skin once perspiration begins. In regard to
durability, polyester is a more elastic fiber and therefore tends to be tear
resistant. However, it does not tend to be as abrasion-resistant as cotton
canvas. As polyester is not dependent upon the forces of nature for a
successful harvest, it is usually considerably cheaper than 100% cotton.
Features of
polyester denim
Ø Uses of yarn---
warp side cotton and weft side polyester.
Ø To loom more
bright than cotton denim.
Ø Stretch.
Ø Strong.
Ø Durability.
Ø To increase
wrinkle resistance.
Ø To melt in fire.
Different between 100% cotton
denim and Polyester denim
The world’s most popular textile, cotton is a
natural fibre grown from seed in warm climates all over the globe. We
appreciate cotton for its strength, its softness, and its smooth, luxurious
feel. It is also well known for being breathable and absorbent, and for feeling
cool and dry to the touch.
Polyester, on the other hand, is quick and cheap to
produce. This manufactured fibre was developed by textile engineers during the
20th century to meet the ever-growing demand for low-cost fabrics. It begins as
a sticky liquid polymer derived from oil and gas, and is pushed through the
fine holes of a “spinneret” until it hardens and becomes strong polyester
filament.
Term
|
100%cotton
|
polyester
|
Drape/Feel
|
100% cotton is soft and
drapes well
|
Polyester will make the
fabric feel harder and the drape stiffer.
|
Static
|
Cotton’s dryness gives good static resistance
|
polyester attracts static and can feel clingy
|
Shape retention
|
This combination requires
less maintenance than cotton alone.
|
A polyester will offset
cotton’s tendency to wrinkle and shrink, as polyester adds a firm, stable
yarn to the mix
|
Breathability
|
cotton breathes well
|
Polyester does not.
|
Wear
|
pure cotton is wear
comfortable
|
Wear faster than pure
cotton, as friction on polyester tends to create unsightly balls of fibre.
|
Absorbency
|
Cotton is naturally absorbent and bulks up when
wet
|
Polyester is not absorbent at all
|
